Always Wear Your Underwear in Public
…and other lessons from the Spring/Summer 2025 runway shows.
Fashion week has a tendency to spray out dozens—if not hundreds—of ideas about style, dress, and clothing, overwhelming any single streamlined narrative about fashion now. That’s where we come in.Over the course of 32 days of runway shows, SSENSE’s VP of Womenswear and Everything Else™ Brigitte Chartrand has isolated six key ideas about how to dress come springtime. Shot on twin Cornish models Hazel and Kirsty Orbell, the trends of the season are easy, strange, and ready to enter your wardrobe now.
More is more is more when it comes to skirt circumferences. JW Anderson kicked off the saucer skirt movement in London with pert, A-line leather shifts, and ALL-IN continued it in Paris with its apron-front circle skirts. Made with crystals and tulle crinolines, the ALL-IN skirt guarantees you’ll look excellent in every bus-stop selfie.
Chloé’s Chemena Kamali is defining a new spritely femininity at the bohemian brand. With her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Kamali elevated lingerie dressing to an art with butter-hued slips worn with Perspex wedges and layered charm necklaces. Perfect for the bedroom, the metro, or the party.
Sometimes, you don’t even need a dress. Ashley Williams’s sweet bodysuit—paired with a collage tunic filled with fun stuff—is enough to make a simple, sexy statement. Ditto for JW Anderson’s aquamarine dress with a built-in hoop skirt. It’s the centerpiece of any great outfit–or room. Balenciaga went as far as to make lingerie the entire fit, creating trompe l’œil bodysuits that look like sexy separates.
Blokecore is done. Instead, get into swimming with sporty scuba sets from Tory Burch and ABRA—it’s like a suit, but stealthier, especially when paired with Tory Burch’s revamped Reva flats. WILLY CHAVARRIA took a sporty theme literally, making a jersey that simply reads “SPORTS 97.”
Each season tends to have a singular color story, but for spring, there are at least two: black and white. It’s bride and groom, day and night, serious and whimsical all at once, whether you’re embracing the the strictness of a VAQUERA blazer, the sinewy elegance of an ISSEY MIYAKE dress, or the punk spirit of Junya Watanabe’s gorp-meets-lingerie frock.
You’ll be prepared for any situation with a green festive frock from Anna Sui or Simone Rocha. Paired with crystals from Sandy Liang and Simone Rocha’s new bejeweled jeans, flirty dressed-up looks are returning to fashion’s fore. Think of it as 2010s 2.0, replacing business casual at the club with sweet 16-core at the rave.
