Designer Spotlight: Gucci

Gucci is an Italian luxury fashion brand founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence, Italy, in 1921. Guccio Gucci initially worked as a hotel employee in London, where he became inspired by the fine luggage he saw wealthy guests carrying. He returned to Italy and opened a small leather goods shop selling high-end luggage and leather accessories.

Gucci's designs were unique in their use of high-quality materials, including exotic leathers, and the incorporation of decorative metal elements such as horse bits, stirrups, and the famous interlocking G logo. In the 1950s and 1960s, the brand expanded its offerings to include clothing and accessories and became a favorite of celebrities and the jet set.

After Guccio Gucci's death in 1953, his sons Aldo, Vasco, and Rodolfo took over the company. Under their leadership, Gucci continued to expand and innovate, introducing new elements such as the bamboo-handled bag and its now infamous green-red-green stripe detail. In the 1980s, Gucci faced financial difficulties and was eventually taken over by the Investcorp investment firm. In 1990, Tom Ford was hired as creative director, and under his leadership, the brand experienced a renaissance, with a focus on sleek, modern designs and provocative advertising campaigns.

Ford’s tenure is often regarded as a defining moment in the history of the brand and in the fashion industry as a whole. Under his leadership, Gucci underwent a major transformation, becoming one of the most profitable and influential fashion brands in the world. His designs were characterized by a sensual, glamorous aesthetic that celebrated the female form and was loved by celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Jennifer Lopez, and Madonna. Ford was also known for his controversial and provocative ad campaigns featuring images that pushed boundaries and challenged traditional notions of gender and sexuality. This approach helped to generate buzz and establish Gucci as a cutting-edge fashion brand that set it apart from its competitors. This new era of luxury and sensuality continues to influence fashion today.

After Ford left Gucci in 2004, Frida Giannini became the Creative Director. Under her leadership the brand found new success, moving away from the established GG monograms and into her fresh, feminine, and bohemian-inspired designs. Giannini was responsible for many popular collections, such as the Flora print before leaving in 2015. She was succeeded by Alessandro Michele as Creative Director.

Michele's designs were known for their eclectic, vintage-inspired aesthetic, which combined a cacophony of prints, textures, and colors in unexpected ways. His designs often featured intricate embroidery, bold patterns, and whimsical details such as animal motifs and oversized glasses. Michele said his aim was to create a sense of "anti-modern" nostalgia in his designs and was known for drawing inspiration from different eras and cultures.

Michele's approach placed a strong emphasis on inclusivity and diversity. His designs featured a range of body types, genders, and ages. He was vocal about his commitment to breaking down gender norms in fashion, introducing unisex pieces, and casting male models in traditionally feminine clothing. Overall, Michele's designs were praised for their unique and innovative approach to fashion, which helped to revitalize Gucci and cement its status as one of the most influential luxury fashion houses in the world.

However, in November 2022, after 7 years at the brand, it was announced that Michele would be stepping down. Rumors swirled that conflicting visions over Gucci’s future caused a rift between the designer and its CEO, Marco Bizzarri. The designer released this statement in response: “There are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have. Today an extraordinary journey ends for me, lasting more than twenty years, within a company to which I have tirelessly dedicated all my love and creative passion. During this long period Gucci has been my home, my adopted family. To this extended family, to all the individuals who have looked after and supported it, I send my most sincere thanks, my biggest and most heartfelt embrace. Together with them I have wished, dreamed, and imagined. Without them, none of what I have built would have been possible. To them goes my sincerest wish: may you continue to cultivate your dreams, the subtle and intangible matter that makes life worth living. May you continue to nourish yourselves with poetic and inclusive imagery, remaining faithful to your values. May you always live by your passions, propelled by the wind of freedom.”

The brand’s incoming designer, Sabato De Sarno, will leave his post as Italian design director from Valentino and present his debut collection for Gucci at Milan Women’s Fashion Week in September 2023.