Horsin’ Around With Hodakova
Industry darling Ellen Hodakova Larsson merges her rural upbringing with cutting-edge fashion, earning her spot as the first Swedish finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize.
Ellen Hodakova Larsson got her first horse at the age of four, and it shows. Growing up on a farm near Strängnäs, just an hour west of Stockholm, she was more at home with the natural world than most of us are with Wi-Fi. From a young age, she was knee-deep in the rhythms of the countryside—whether she was honing her skills in competitive horseback riding or running barefoot with her brother, playing a taste-testing game to prove who had the more precise knowledge of apple varieties. It was an idyllic, albeit slightly offbeat, childhood that shaped her in ways that are apparent in her work today.
At 16, while the world was grappling with the early 2000s blogging boom, Larsson found herself struck by fashion, eventually channeling this passion into years of study at the Swedish School of Textiles. There, Larsson mastered the technical precision of tailoring but also indulged in her love for the abstract by experimenting with sculpture. Upon graduating in 2021, she launched her brand Hodakova. Laird Borrelli-Persson of explained how all of these threads of Larsson’s experience are woven into the brand: “What Larsson does is not for show; it’s an extension of a way of life and a belief system in which reuse is valued.”Now, at 32, Larsson has propelled Hodakova to the industry’s forefront, earning a coveted spot as a finalist in the 2024 LVMH Prize—the first Swedish designer to do so. Her brand is about crafting enduring pieces, each with roots in that farm in Strängnäs. Larsson deconstructs and reimagines garments—from paneled handbags and pencil skirts made from leather belts to halter tops crafted from antique watches and midi dresses adorned with sewing needles—transforming preloved items into something new, something with soul. Her aesthetic balances classic chic, equestrian flair, and a hint of medieval intrigue with a touch of witchiness. Stars like Dua Lipa, Kylie Jenner, and Greta Lee are fans. “Pure creation can feel self-indulgent, but when you infuse it with purpose, it gains a deeper value and meaning,” Larsson says. “It opens up new layers of understanding—like questioning why something should or shouldn’t be made, how it communicates, and where it fits in the world.”Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword for Larsson; it’s the backbone of her design philosophy. Elizabeth Stewart, the stylist who dressed Cate Blanchett in a Hodakova creation made from 102 spoons for the Los Angeles premiere this month, was quick to recognize the depth of Larsson’s eco-conscious commitment. “Her goal to establish a fully sustainable fashion house aligns perfectly with the future direction of fashion,” Stewart says. And Harry Lambert, who styled Emma Corrin in Hodakova for the screening in July at Comic-Con in San Diego, adds, “There’s something about the construction of her garments that just feels like they have a heart and a history to them. When a collection leans heavily on craftsmanship, it can easily veer into costume territory, but Larsson’s pieces maintain a second-skin feel—effortless and natural.”The 2024 LVMH Prize has brought global attention to Larsson’s work, but what sets her apart is the community she’s cultivated. For Larsson, fashion isn’t just a solo act, it’s a collaborative, almost alchemical process. Her collections are like stone soup—a bit of this, a dash of that, coming together to create something extraordinary.Here, Larsson reflects on her rural upbringing, the intricate creative process behind her designs, her dreams for the future of Hodakova, and, of course, what she would do if she snagged that life-changing LVMH Prize.
What was it like growing up on a horse farm in the Swedish countryside?What do you mean by resourceful?Do you still ride?
It sounds posh, but it was very agricultural—we grew our own food. My parents were resourceful, they used everything they had around them. My brother and I helped out, and we were always outside. We had an apple tree farm where we played barefoot, and we had a game where we would taste different apples to guess their variety. I practically grew up on horseback.My mom is the ultimate second-hand hustler. We never owned our own horses or equipment; instead, we took care of other people’s. We couldn’t afford to buy anything fancy or new, but my mom had a knack for transforming cheap scraps and furniture into something valuable. My dad was equally resourceful, diving into projects without prior knowledge and mastering skills as he went. This mindset defined my upbringing: we made the best of what we had, using creativity and resourcefulness to turn what was available into something great.I still ride occasionally, though I don’t have my own horse. My biggest dream is to own a horse farm again—it’s shaped me in so many ways. For me, horses have always been more than animals; they’re friends. I got my first horse at four, and I vividly remember riding through forests and fields with my mom, galloping side by side. For those who haven’t experienced it, having animals is like having a special kind of friendship. There’s a magical communication between humans and animals that’s crucial for us to understand—we’re not the only species on this planet. This connection has fueled my love for nature and sustainability, driving me to leave the world a bit better than I found it.
Where did your awareness of garments and aesthetics come from?How did launching your brand come about, and why did you name it Hodakova?How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic and ethos today?
It comes from my parents and the environment I grew up in, especially spending every day at the stable. I was raised to care for our equipment, and when you’re competing with horses, each piece of your uniform is essential. My dad’s military background, with its aesthetic-specific uniforms, also played a role.My mom was very fashionable when I was a kid. She was the one always running late, stitching a new dress for whatever occasion. Between the ages of six and nine, I was obsessed with dressing up, raiding her wardrobe in the attic—her ’80s suits were my favorites—and putting on performances in our living room.Later, when I started riding, I became obsessed with having the right pieces from the right brands. This shaped my understanding of fashion, from spotting trends to recognizing how clothes communicate status. It wasn’t so much a single fashion awakening as it was a growing awareness of fashion’s power, especially in the world of horse riding, where brand and style often spoke volumes—especially among the rich kids.I’ve always known I wanted to start my own company. Hodakova is my grandmother’s surname, and it represents qualities I deeply value—fearlessness in the face of the unknown, believing in endless possibilities, and the driving force in that, no matter where you come from, you can master anything if you commit to learning it. My grandmother’s resilience during the war, escaping from Karelia to Finland and then Sweden, embodies the mindset of putting everything on the line to make things happen, especially in tough times. Naming the brand Hodakova is a tribute to her strength. I launched the brand during COVID while working in a basement studio with a group of creative friends—photographers, painters, 3D printers, and musicians. That time of collaboration and reinvention was important for me.I aim to be timeless, not driven by trends, but fueled by curiosity, exploring different perspectives and narratives. While sustainability is important, the real core of my work is about learning and playing—without that, I wouldn’t be doing this.
Could you give us a glimpse into your process when creating a collection?How do you approach sourcing materials for upcycling in your collections?Have you found anything surprising in the pockets of pieces you’ve sourced for upcycling?
I approach it like a diary entry, reflecting my mindset and worldview at that specific moment. My process is highly intuitive—it’s like a playful game where I’m chasing surprises. There to be surprises, because when those unexpected moments click, that’s when the magic happens. It’s all about letting the process unfold naturally and embracing the organic flow.I’ve set specific restrictions for the brand because I believe constraints fuel creativity. We collaborate with companies that provide materials and AI programs for sorting and development, ensuring all our standards are met. When selecting second-hand pieces, we look for specific styles, as our designs aim to connect with the details of the original garment. Highlighting those details is important. Each piece is dissected and reconstructed through a process with 11 to 14 steps, including sorting, washing, and peeling. We’ve developed a unique system that communicates differently for production, adapting to the specific requirements of upcycling versus stitching flat fabric.Absolutely—everything from used napkins to condoms. Some pretty weird stuff, and it’s almost always in men’s suits, which I find particularly interesting.
How did it feel to be a finalist for the LVMH Prize, making history as the first Swedish designer to do so? What would winning mean to you?Are there any pieces in your work that you’re particularly proud of?We’ve shot your FW24 collection at the glorious Coworth Park and its equestrian center. What inspired the collection?
It was an incredible honor—definitely a validation of our work. To drive change, you need visibility and recognition, so being a finalist is a significant milestone. I’m also surprised and intrigued by how much people already know about the brand. Winning would not only affirm our approach but also highlight a shift in the fashion system’s mindset. It would be a huge boost for our brand’s development.I’m proud of everything I’ve created, but a few stand out. There’s a skirt I’ve worn almost every day since fashion school—originally a pair of upside-down black wool suit trousers that I’ve gradually modified into the perfect skirt. It proves that garments can be versatile and timeless. I’m also proud of the spoon dress, which is stunning up close, and the belt pieces, which have evolved with me since school. It’s exciting to push the boundaries of everyday items.The collection is a diary entry capturing where I am in adulthood, deeply influenced by my childhood in horse stables and my connection to the equestrian world. It reflects the English countryside aesthetic that shaped me, from the rich materials and patterns to the cozy, romantic vibe of sitting in a library with Chesterfield sofas and the scent of cigars—my dad used to smoke cigars while the radio played in the stables. I wanted to bring that warmth and nostalgia into the collection, highlighting checks, coats, and even incorporating the radio during the show. I’m steering away from the trendy irony that’s everywhere and focusing on something more genuine—romanticizing, dreaming, and embracing environments and clothes that make you feel good, intellectual, and serious, but with a touch of fun. Too much irony can be disruptive; I’m more interested in creating garments that encourage a sense of comfort and joy.
What does your family think of your work? Do they wear your designs?And your brother?Are you and your brother still good at identifying apple varieties?What are your hobbies outside of fashion and horse riding?You’re so wholesome—everyone should take note.Without giving too much away, what can we expect from your show in September?
My mom does, and she’s adorable about it. She’ll call me with ideas, like suggesting I flip a design or make a different cut. Sometimes I take her advice—it’s inspiring. One of our team members who visited for midsummer said, “This is where the Hodakova aesthetic comes from.” The brand is deeply rooted in my mom and my upbringing. My dad and his wife are incredibly supportive, even if they don’t fully get what I do. They’re impressed and encouraging.He’s a software developer, so he helps with the tech side, like our website, but he’s not wearing the clothes, no.My brother has an incredible memory—he remembers everything, while I’m more in the moment. Now that he has a child, we spend more time together, and I love asking him about our past. Last week, I quizzed him on apple breeds, and he nailed it. I remember the visuals, tastes, and feelings, but not the names.I love swimming, running, reading, painting, and playing with my dog. I’m getting a sailboat this summer, so I’ll be sailing, and I also enjoy golf and tennis.I believe in embracing all aspects of life. It’s important not to confine yourself too much—life is too vast for that. Curiosity is key; there’s so much to explore and experience.Expect a crescendo.
