How to Wear a Square: ISSEY MIYAKE FW23

The Japanese label takes us on a shape odyssey in Tokyo.

From an artist’s canvas to a music score or a piece of fabric, many creative pursuits start within the tight corners and rigid boundaries of a square. Inspired by the pivotal role of this simple and ubiquitous shape, the design team at ISSEY MIYAKE began the FW23 collection at square one. What can you do with such a rational shape? How exactly does one a square?

To address this question, ISSEY MIYAKE designer Satoshi Kondo employed the Japanese concept of , loosely defined as a pause in time, an interval, or emptiness in space. A series of long, seamless dresses dubbed Counterpoint characterize this principle, with sharp corners that jut out, creating caverns at the hips, arms, and ankles. Unconventional knitwear techniques, like knitting the front and back of a garment in different directions, create a push-and-pull effect, resulting in provocative pinches and twists on black and white asymmetrical dresses.Accompanied by two models, photographer Shun Komiyama took the collection on a journey through Tokyo, testing the limits of shape by interacting with architectural elements around the city. Often considered to be opposing, the preternatural straight lines of a square can coexist with the organic curves of the human body. Always thoughtful, Issey Miyake FW23 shows us the surprising beauty that results when the square meets the circle.