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Learning to Love Minimalism with AURALEE

SSENSE
SSENSE
Nov 22 2024

London-based writer Raven Smith has been known to dress in loud, brash patterns. But the austere elegance of the Japanese label is giving him second thoughts.


Learning to Love Minimalism with AURALEE


For as long as I can remember I’ve been a man of jazzy shirts. The shirts where you’re not quite sure if the pattern quite works are the exact shirts that work for me. Artisanally stitched by hand. A smidgen of gold thread. A touch of the alohas. The bolder the shirt pattern the better—hot pink slashed through with oxblood, anthropomorphic animal motifs, angry tessellated houndsteeth, even a Magic Eye chevron get my juices flowing.


Once the compulsively bought atrocities arrive, I retire to my lair (spare bedroom) to try the shirts on, reconstituting everything into its own look-at-me terrazzo, an annoyance of fabric and flaunt. I psychedelically traipse Britain’s mean streets (Hampstead) like von Trapp kids in their Fraulein’s curtains, a dazzle-camouflaged torso easily seen from space.


Learning to Love Minimalism with AURALEE


Learning to Love Minimalism with AURALEE


Minimalism, to me, is a forbidden fruit. I would rather sit on an anthill than adopt a dreaded capsule wardrobe. A blue jean, a wee flash of ankle, an old-maiden type of loafer, doesn’t do it for me. I like a tan mac, I do—they’re a sort of National Service requirement in London—but I would rather assume rain-lashed zebra print (a mac is just a long, waterproof shirt after all). I don’t want to be too reactionary against British menswear’s extremely austere style, its Savile-Row-librarian-sipping-a-Guinness predilections. And honestly, if UK lads can’t neck 18 pub pints in diffusion Drake’s, who can? There’s space for us all, but I cannot fathom the appeal of those with a seemingly personal vendetta against standing out. I find myself in a tiring crusade against quiet extravagance. I refuse to be bricked into the sanatorium of clean lines.But something changed recently. I was getting these flash migraines, and my aggressive pattern-clash wasn’t helping. I still want to look daring without looking dickwad, so I’m turning to AURALEE, a low-key luxe brand that has current menswear heads creaming their CDLP. This man of jazzy shirts is finally road-testing haute minimalism.


Learning to Love Minimalism with AURALEE


The first thing I try is the leather pants. Their overwhelming molasses richness, thick and dark, encasing my legs, a leather-clad luxury. I am a gun-toting clench-jawed Marlboro man, roaming the prairies. I am the moist seat of a purring Harley Davidson. I am rugby and I am fishmongering because they are just as fucking butch. I had a life before this, and there’s a life after, but this is the moment when leather pants permanently enter my lexicon. I am in love.Next is the jumper. A translucent cobweb of refinement, my barely visible nipples whispering, “Hello, stranger.” I simultaneously feel demure, like Julia Roberts in , and autonomously erotic, like Julia Roberts in . The only errand I have to run that morning is to Sainsbury’s, and I walk the aisles perusing cereal like Kit De Luca is hyping me down Sunset Boulevard. People look at me in a way that reeks of envy, coveting my refined daywear in a petty delirium. Nobody offers to buy my groceries, but you can’t have it all.Where the leather trousers are thick as mince, the AURALEE shirts I get are light as meringue. A roomy, lenient radius of cotton extends my increasingly adult-ed aura. I get a few AURALEE shirts because I’m a piglet, and match the hue to my mood. Pale SPF yellow for when I feel like a private school horse girl. A quiet, almost inaudible pink that noiselessly echoes the poor woman in as she pirouettes right up to death itself (this is a good thing). A goose-white number that conversely feels mineral and aggressing (there’s nothing more menacing than a flock of geese). I add a pair of faded-avocado suit trousers to the mix and I have, dare I say it, an easy uniform. If I am not an intellectual, then I’m a pseudo-intellectual, a man of dusty paperbacks, rabbit skinning, voting Tory, and other aristocratic pursuits. I feel like I’m swimming in a new pool, a side-pocket with no jazzy shirts, where minimalism is respected, but not too strictly adhered to. I am shrewd and roguish. I am both Evelyn Waugh’s Anthony Blanche and Patricia Highsmith’s Freddie Miles.


Learning to Love Minimalism with AURALEE


Learning to Love Minimalism with AURALEE


The final addition to my wardrobe is a suit, in church-candle ivory. I love a good suit, cleanly julienned to the body. I like a knife-sharp lapel, and I can tell you the lapels are divine. But the overall cut is softer, smoothly coating the tongue like a good white Russian. I don’t feel too overdone, too buttoned-up. There’s a quasi-unkemptness softening any traditional severity. I feel smart, without the starchiness of that ill-fitting two-piece I got married in half a century ago. I also feel a kind of cosmopolitan adeptness. I can roast a chicken for Sunday lunch and I’ll remember to take the giblets out. I am romantically cad-ish. Rom-com-ily sincere. The kind of guy who’ll defend your honor (ardently, aggressively, but never, ever physically). The kind of guy that leaves you an effusive voice-novella that you listen to in full. He likes poetry, but he’s not a poetry guy.I realize I have been flim-flamming my whole life, donning silly pub-darts-player shirts when I could have been slicing through life in the sharpest of garments. I’ve been wearing the kind of public atrocities Project Mayhem conspired to destroy in . With these new garments I feel reborn, or if not reborn, rewild-ed, factory reset-ed, and always remembered. I leave every room oozing with sartorial intent, and groaning with knowing. AURALEE hasn’t changed my life—do life-changing garments really exist?—but it’s offered more options, more outcomes, more avenues. I’m not quite living my best life, but AURALEE offers me a ventriloquism of accomplishment while I wait for the rest to fall into place.