The SSENSE Guide to Chinese Clothing Brands

Bridging history and the future, here are 21 labels shaping a new frontier in fashion.

Why does Chinese fashion matter? The country’s personal luxury market reached $63 billion in 2024, surpassing growth in Europe and the US, according to a report by Business of Fashion and McKinsey, highlighting China’s considerable influence on the industry. But beyond the explosive growth, a quieter movement is reshaping the country’s fashion scene.

Recently, Shanghai Fashion Week showcased the region’s emerging role as a global fashion hub, drawing top brands like Moncler, which hosted an immersive event, and Vivienne Westwood, which revealed its SS25 collection. “China is very important to our company. I’m always astonished how hard-working people are here and how young people are here,” shared Vivienne Westwood creative director Andreas Kronthaler in a China Daily interview.A new generation of Chinese designers, trained at top institutions like Parsons and Central Saint Martins, is combining contemporary styles with traditional cultural elements. “The contemporary interpretation of traditional craftsmanship is one of the most distinctive aspects of Chinese brands,” note SHUSHU/TONG’s designers, Jiang Yutong and Lei Liushu, who used conventional Suzhou embroidery as inspiration for floral elements in their SS24 collection. “The Chinese fashion industry is forming a virtuous cycle of localization—Chinese consumers are gradually building trust and preference for local independent designer brands, while these brands increasingly value local consumers’ perspectives.” The growing presence of Chinese designer brands on SSENSE underscores this shift. “The Chinese fashion scene has evolved significantly in recent years, marked by a dynamic blend of innovation in design and production, cultural pride, and a growing desire for self-expression,” says SSENSE buyer Mark Pourshafiey. “Looking at the domestic Chinese market is a great indicator of how consumers globally may move. Brands that experience high domestic success and have strong, loyal local followings, yet remain under the radar internationally, are prime candidates for SSENSE.” By balancing heritage and modernity, Chinese designers are charting new territory in the fashion world, and are uniquely positioned to captivate international consumers craving fresh perspectives. In this guide, SSENSE spotlights the Chinese designer brands making waves in 2024.

A. A. Spectrum Founded: 2015 Location: Beijing Instagram: @aaspectrum__official SSENSE says: Outerwear-focused brand A. A. Spectrum delivers high-performance menswear with a distinctive blend of minimalist and futuristic design, driven by cross-cultural collaboration and aiming to break conventional boundaries. Imbuing its identity with the essence of inclusivity, the brand prioritizes sustainable, eco-friendly production methods, crafting clothing that transcends seasonal trends.

​​AO Yes Founded: 2022 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @aoyes_ SSENSE says: AO Yes, cofounded by creative media figure Austin Wang and Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College graduate Yansong Liu, presents an aesthetic that merges ancient cultural traditions with modern sensibilities. With designs that embrace youthful, spirited, and playful expressions, the label infuses Chinese cultural elements into fashion with intricate details, silhouettes, and fabric choices, catering to those who appreciate art and fashion with a unique cultural perspective.

Aviva Jifei Xue Founded: 2020 Location: New York Instagram: @avivajxue SSENSE says: Parsons graduate Aviva Jifei Xue draws from her upbringing in Japan and China to create fashion that blends traditional aesthetics with modern experimentation. Known for its delicate, expressive style, her brand often incorporates handcrafted techniques to evoke a poetic atmosphere, featuring unique textures and colors inspired by nature. The collection includes monochromatic and patchworked pieces with relaxed, oversize silhouettes that are easy to layer.

CHENPENG Founded: 2015 Location: London Instagram: @chenpengstudio SSENSE says: Designer Chen Peng, a graduate of the London College of Fashion, is internationally recognized for his advocacy in inclusive fashion. A semifinalist for the LVMH Prize in 2022, CHENPENG’s core philosophy of “one-size fashion” promotes clothing for everyone, regardless of body shape, size, gender, or age. The brand’s down designs feature bold silhouettes and dramatic contours, striking a balance between futurism and functionality.

C2H4 Founded: 2014 Location: Los Angeles Instagram: @c2h4 SSENSE says: Yixi Chen, who moved to the US from Shanghai at age 17, established C2H4 in Los Angeles as a retro-futurist brand that integrates rebellion with a scientific spirit. Named after the molecular formula for ethylene—homophonous with “Yixi” in Chinese—C2H4 crafts uniquely styled menswear with a futuristic aesthetic that captures the essence of sci-fi and underground culture.

Feng Chen Wang Founded: 2015 Location: London Instagram: @fengchenwang SSENSE says: Feng Chen Wang’s eponymous menswear brand is celebrated for its boundary-pushing designs and “reconstruction” technique. Her work combines traditional Chinese elements with modern technology, innovating with shapes, materials, and structures. Wang’s concepts draw from cross-disciplinary inspirations like contemporary art and architecture, often featuring bold, asymmetrical cuts.

Fax Copy Express Founded: 2020 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @faxcopyexpress SSENSE says: Fax Copy Express’s straightforward name embodies its design ethos—transforming basic “originals” into evolved “copies” through adaptive patterns. Known for its gender-neutral and sustainable designs, Fax Copy Express offers both womenswear and menswear on SSENSE, blending minimalist aesthetics with practicality. The brand draws inspiration from daily life while infusing a nostalgic ’90s flair into its contemporary collections.

Karmuel Young Founded: 2014 Location: Hong Kong Instagram: @karmuelyoung_official SSENSE says: Hong Kong–born designer Karmuel Young brings a new angle to menswear silhouettes with his brand, which draws inspiration from everyday life to explore the vast creative potential within menswear. Focused on minimalism and modernity, his designs balance functionality and aesthetics, known for their unique draping, structure, and distinctive silhouettes.

Li-Ning Founded: 1990 Location: Beijing Instagram: @lining.official SSENSE says: Founded by world-class gymnast Li Ning, the eponymous brand has evolved from a traditional sportswear company into a fashion-forward leader in athleisure and streetwear. Li-Ning’s design aesthetic merges sports technology with fashion, frequently incorporating Chinese characters and traditional prints to create a brand image that is distinctive and recognizable.

LII Founded: 2023 Location: New York Instagram: @l__i_i SSENSE says: Zane Li, a Chinese designer from Chongqing, launched his brand LII after graduating from FIT in 2023. Blending avant-garde art with modern aesthetics, LII’s womenswear collections feature structural, voluminous designs and unconventional materials, merging a sense of high-fashion with practical elegance.

NULLUS Founded: 2021 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @nullus.official SSENSE says: The menswear brand NULLUS derives its name from the Latin words for “none” and “empty,” reflecting the designers’ philosophy of minimalism and restraint, allowing consumers to focus on the garments themselves. NULLUS presents a calm yet experimental visual effect while exploring gender-neutral expressions, featuring garments that use soft colors and expose shoulders and backs, breaking free from traditional gender boundaries in menswear.

Nφdress Founded: 2014 Location: Guangzhou Instagram: @nodress_online SSENSE says: Designer LuQi Yu, a Central Saint Martins graduate, founded Nφdress in 2014. The brand draws inspiration from old photographs of street fashion in 1990s China and Japan, cleverly using elements like bows, ruffles, and draping to interpret retro styles. Nφdress incorporates surprising materials—lace, mesh, satin, velour—with unexpected cuts and thoughtful detailing, giving its designs a nostalgic vibe.

pet-tree-kor Founded: 2021 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @pet_tree_kor SSENSE says: Established in 2021 in Shanghai by Liu Xinyu, Qiu Wanqing, and Dong Hongyuan, pet-tree-kor draws inspiration from nature. The brand name is a phonetic translation of the word “petrichor,” referring to the smell of earth after rain. Their design philosophy integrates the structure of urban architecture with the contours of natural elements, exploring the symbiotic relationship between nature and the city. Known for its minimalist, elegant, and practical style, the brand emphasizes texture, material selection, and environmentally friendly production methods.

RUI Founded: 2019 Location: New York and Shanghai Instagram: @ruiofficial.me SSENSE says: Born in China, Zhou Rui graduated from Beijing’s Tsinghua University before pursuing a master’s degree at Parsons in New York. Her graduation show garnered significant attention, leading her to establish her brand in 2019. She is the first Chinese designer to reach the finals of the LVMH Prize and ultimately won the Karl Lagerfeld Prize’s Special Jury Award. RUI’s distinctive design style frequently incorporates fabrics with holes, tears, and irregular edges, creating a semi-nude, translucent visual effect that is both artistic and layered.

SHANG XIA Founded: 2010 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @shangxia SSENSE says: SHANG XIA is a lifestyle brand cofounded in 2008 by Hermès and Chinese designer Jiang Qiong Er, dedicated to preserving the exquisite craftsmanship of China and other Asian countries. The product line ranges from furniture and home goods to clothing and jewelry. In line with the brand philosophy, the ready-to-wear collection presents a tailored feel and a sense of futurism.

SHUSHU/TONG Founded: 2015 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @shushu__tong SSENSE says: In the realm of “girlishness,” SHUSHU/TONG has gained worldwide attention for its unique feminine style, attracting celebrity fans like Alexa Chung, Sydney Sweeney, and BLACKPINK’s Jennie Kim and Lisa. The brand name combines the names of designer duo Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang, who met at the London College of Fashion. SHUSHU/TONG’s designs are fun and full of personality, relying on sweet femininity infused with a rebellious spirit, skillfully deconstructing classic ruffles, bows, and pleats with avant-garde interpretations. The designers emphasize sculptural tailoring and unique silhouettes, preserving feminine softness while conveying a strong sense of individuality.

TMS.SITE Founded: 2021 Location: Hong Kong Instagram: @tms.site SSENSE says: After graduating from the Royal College of Art, Hong Kong designer Mei Sze Tsang founded TMS.SITE in 2021 to enhance the functionality and utility of traditional workwear. TMS.SITE aims to “create the best workwear.” The brand focuses on the practical needs of construction workers, incorporating safety and practicality while improving comfort and usability through material selection and ergonomic tailoring.

The World Is Your Oyster Founded: 2014 Location: Hong Kong Instagram: @theworld_is_youroyster SSENSE says: Founded in 2014 by Calvin Chan and Joyce Kun, the menswear brand The World Is Your Oyster gets its name from Shakespeare, implying that “all wonderful things, like pearls in oysters, await to be discovered.” The designers interpret contemporary menswear styles through imaginative and experimental designs. Their works often feature clean silhouettes and unconventional materials, balancing masculinity with a romantic touch.

untitlab® Founded: 2019 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @unititlab SSENSE says: With geometric silhouettes and oversized heels, the footwear brand untitlab® has been gaining broader recognition beyond niche circles. Established in 2019 by creatives Nicolas Tian, Sans Peng, and Justin Zen, untitlab® creates a sense of futurism and experimental style through structural deconstruction, asymmetric silhouettes, and unique materials, while retaining practicality for modern urban life. Sustainability is central to the brand’s design and production, utilizing high-performance synthetic leather materials from local factories.

UMA WANG Founded: 2009 Location: Shanghai Instagram: @umawangofficial SSENSE says: Uma Wang founded her eponymous brand, UMA WANG, in 2009, becoming the first Chinese designer to enter the European fashion calendar. This Shanghai-based brand achieves a balance between detachment and sensibility through its raw yet elegant aesthetic. UMA WANG’s ready-to-wear collections are made in Italy in collaboration with local fabric workshops to create unique textures. The collections feature muted colors, large prints, unfinished hems, and rich detailing, expressing the brand’s consistent and refined design style.

Yuhan Wang Founded: 2018 Location: London Instagram: @yuhanwangyuhan SSENSE says: Yuhan Wang, a Central Saint Martins graduate who honed her skills working with Marni and JW Anderson, collaborated with the renowned London talent incubator Fashion East to launch her eponymous brand in 2018. Yuhan Wang’s designs feature soft fabrics, intricate draping, and unique prints reminiscent of Chinese landscapes, often using understated tones and floral patterns to evoke a poetic and romantic atmosphere. The brand emphasizes sustainability, frequently repurposing textile scraps and exploring zero-waste design techniques, conveying a strong commitment to eco-friendly practices.