A dining table's centrepiece, thesurtout, literally translating from Cristofle's native French to 'above all', stems from the final years of Louis xiv's reign, in which elegant service became a hallmark of France's excellence. This silver-plated semi-circular tray may once have begun with a utility-designed function of storing on-table necessities - think salt, pepper, notes on dinner-appropriate subjects - but is now a remarkable addition to any tabletop, with its mirrored finish reflecting the charming pieces set atop its polished surface.